72 Hours in New Orleans

Even if you can’t tell the difference between a voodoo gris gris and a gumbo ya-ya, our Big Easy itinerary will help you find the best to eat, drink, see and do in one of America’s favorite cities.

Renowned American playwright, Tennessee Williams, famously said, “America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.”

Now, listen, I love Cleveland, and I spent years living in New York, but this city we locals affectionately call “NOLA” really is a special place. It has food, music, architecture and a way of living unlike anywhere else in the country. Settled by the French 300 years ago, you can’t do everything in a weekend. This itinerary can, however, kickstart a love affair that’ll have you planning a trip back before your plane home even leaves the runway! And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. So buy that plane ticket, and get ready for a lifetime of wondering whether you should drop everything and begin life anew in the Crescent City!

Getting Here and Where to Stay

Flying to New Orleans has never been so cheap! Roundtrip flights from cities across America get you to New Orleans for as little as $50. As for where to stay? For a first trip, sticking to neighborhoods like the French Quarter, CBD or Marigny will keep you close to the action. Try Melrose Mansion or Lamothe House Hotel for something on beautiful Esplanade Avenue, or follow in the footsteps of U.S. Presidents at The Roosevelt.

DAY 1

Friday at 3pm: Kick Off Your Explorations with a Cocktail

New Orleans has invented some of the planet’s favorite cocktails. One such drink is the Sazerac -- an absinthe- or Herbsaint-rinsed glass with bourbon or rye whiskey, a sugar cube, a few dashes of Peychaud’s bitters and a twist of lemon peel. If you land in Concourse B of the brand new Louis Armstrong International Airport terminal, grab one at Bar Sazerac. If you’re in Concourse C, try Cure -- named one of America’s top cocktail bars.

5:30pm: Bop around Magazine Street

This evening’s all about Uptown, and the neighborhood’s main artery is Magazine Street. Walk the famous mixed-use thoroughfare and stop in at local favorites like Goorin Bros. Hat Shop and Funky Monkey. If you’re like me, though, your goal is food. Check out District Donuts for sweets, and Casamento’s for oysters. (If you don’t think you like oysters, I was once like you. Try the city’s favorite bivalve “chargrilled” with cheese and butter!)

7:00pm: It’s a Walk in the Park

When you’re tired of walking, take a Blue Bike (making a comeback soon, apparently!) or RTA bus to the 350-acre Audubon Park. Catch the sunset along the Mississippi River at The Fly, or stand in awe of the 300-year-old Tree of Life. Walk under Spanish moss hanging from the park’s collection of oak trees as you make your way to St. Charles Avenue and the campuses of Tulane and Loyola universities. Hop on the world’s oldest streetcar and head toward dinner!

8:30pm: Enjoy a Creole Culinary Gem

Commander’s Palace was founded in 1893 and -- with seven James Beard awards and countless other accolades -- I hope you made a reservation! Whether it’s a romantic dinner with my girlfriend, or introducing family and friends to the top-notch food and service NOLA has to offer, Commander’s is a must-visit. Come hungry because gumbo, turtle soup, duck confit and foie gras sweet potato pie are just a few of the Creole flavors you’ll introduce your tastebuds to!

10:30pm: Get Some of That Live Music

The only sense you’ve left neglected tonight is your sense of hearing, so solve that by heading to Frenchmen Street -- the center of the city’s music scene. Enter the street from Esplanade Avenue and enjoy the sounds of jazz pouring out of a dozen music venues. The Spotted Cat, Apple Barrel and d.b.a are few of my favorites, but you’ll find great music just about anywhere as musicians hop from one club to the next.

DAY 2

Saturday at 9:00am: The Early Bird Gets The Beignet 

Somehow those same tourists you saw on Frenchmen will now be roaming the French Quarter’s early-to-open bars and eateries. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Cafe Du Monde. Weary souls form a line down the sidewalk, waiting for square, French-style doughnuts covered (reallllllly covered) in powdered sugar. Enjoy an order with a cup of our local style of chicory coffee and you’ll understand why Cafe Du Monde is on every visitor’s list of to-dos.

10:00am: Let’s Learn Something!

Wipe that powder off your clothes (I hope you didn’t wear black) and hop to the river -- the feature that made this city possible. Cross the street and peak inside the iconic St. Louis Cathedral, and now it’s museum time. Once the Spanish colonial city hall, the Cabildo is my favorite -- guiding you through NOLA’s amazing history. Other possibilities include the quirky-but-popular Pharmacy Museum and the National WWII Museum -- TripAdvisor’s second most popular U.S. destination!

Noon: Brunch, Part 1

It’s possible New Orleans invented brunch, so you probably should enjoy a couple while you’re here. For your first, I’d recommend Paladar 511, recently called a city-wide Top 10 restaurant. The only thing more impressive than the open kitchen and chic setting is the food. If there’s a wait, grab a cocktail and stroll the beautiful Marigny neighborhood. When you come back, it’s time for Korean Steak & Eggs, Spicy Breakfast Pizza, and a Lemon Ricotta Pancake dessert!

2pm: America’s Most Notorious Street

When the street was laid out in 1721, Bourbon referred to France’s ruling family. Today, we’re more likely to think of the amber-colored liquor, and its friends whiskey, rum and “Huge Ass Beers.” Debauchery is king here, but a few bars are should-trys: Fritzel’s for jazz; Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is America’s oldest structure housing a bar; Pat O’Brien’s invented the Hurricane; and Galatoire’s (and its bar next door) is an institution beloved by locals.

4pm: Is the Room Spinning?

Head a few blocks over to Royal Street, where you’ll find one of the oldest family-owned hotels in the U.S. Established in 1886, Hotel Monteleone has been a favorite of the nation’s most prominent authors, including Tennessee Williams, Ernest Hemingway, William Faulkner and Truman Capote. It’s also home to the famous 25-seat Carousel Bar -- created in 1949 -- where you can try the Vieux Carre, a cocktail invented at Monteleone and named after “the Quarter.”

5:30pm: You’ve Done Creole, Now It’s Time for Cajun

Work off that booze and create an appetite by walking (or grabbing a Blue Bike or ride-share) to an early dinner at the award-winning Cochon. French for “pig,” this restaurant has plenty of it (and other meats), full of Cajun and Southern delicacies like fried boudin with pickled peppers, smoked pork ribs with watermelon pickle, a boucherie plate, rabbit and dumplings, duck and hot sausage gumbo, catfish courtbouillon and many others. Save room for dessert!

8pm: A Bywater Trifecta

The Bywater is considered by many (including me -- I live there) to be the city’s “hippest” neighborhood. Parleaux Beer Lab has a beautiful courtyard and is one of a dozen NOLA breweries founded in the last decade. Bacchanal has an incredible offering of wine and live music in a beautiful courtyard of their own; and Vaughan’s is one of the city’s “neighborhood bars,” located on the corner of an otherwise residential street. Uber to the Bywater and walk between bars.

11pm: St. Claude Avenue

When Bourbon Street became a playground for tourists, the locals went to Frenchmen Street. When savvier tourists found Frenchmen, the locals expanded to St. Claude Avenue. Join them on the stretch just downriver of Elysian Fields Avenue. You’ll find live music, entertaining burlesque shows, karaoke, dancing and comedy at bars like Allways Lounge, Hi-Ho Lounge, Kajuns and Carnaval Lounge. Check out the murals on the block, and enjoy the late-night cheese fry selection at Hi-Ho!

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Pro Tip: Keep Learning

New Orleans has a history unique from any other city on the planet. Our one-of-a-kind geography also presents unique challenges. This collection of short essays by local historian, Richard Campanella, will ensure you can keep learning as you prepare for your next trip to the Crescent City. It’s a fun and interesting read, and my favorite New Orleans book I own.

DAY 3

Sunday at 9am: Brunch, Part 2

Sad it’s already your last day in New Orleans? Well, there’s no time for sadness, because it’s time to explore Mid-City! Katie’s is billed as an “old-school, family-operated neighborhood restaurant,” and the longer you linger, the more “Mid-Citizens” you’ll see pour in. $15 bottomless drinks will get the party going as you work your way through favorites like Grits & Grillades, and a slew of dishes featuring a Cajun style of pig called “Cochon de lait.”

11:30am: Art on the Bayou

Have the server fill up your “Go Cup” (mercifully legal in New Orleans!) and head to historic Bayou St. John near the corner of Moss Street and Lafitte Avenue. A 30-minute stroll along the charming waterway will lead you to City Park and the totally-free Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden. Get lost in the landscape of lagoons, pines, magnolias and live oaks as you wander among 90 fun and thought-provoking sculptures from around the world.

2pm: An Iconic Sandwich

Legend says the poboy was invented in 1929 during a streetcar strike. The strikers were without salary, so a local shop made inexpensive sandwiches (with gravy and fries, for example) for the “poor boys.” Today, the iconic food -- served on French bread with a crisp crust and fluffy center -- holds a lot more, and Parkway Bakery is one of the best. My favorite is the Surf & Turf: roast beef and fried shrimp smothered in gravy!

3pm: One More for the Road

We started this journey with a cocktail, so let’s end it the same way. At first glance, 12 Mile Limit looks like a dive bar. In fact, on 10th glance, it still looks like a dive bar; but inside this building that’s been a bar since the 1920s, you’ll find one of the city’s most creative bar programs. Play pool or cozy up in this neighborhood favorite and savor your adventure’s final, relaxed moments.

For Those With More Time or Specific Interests
Alligator Tours are a great introduction to the region’s swamps. Visits to plantations like Oak Alley or Whitney can expose you to beautiful homes, as well as the region’s complicated past. Attending a fais do do at The Tigermen Den or Tipitina’s (or music at Rock’n’Bowl or Mulate’s) can introduce you to the one-of-a-kind culture of Cajun Country. And The Lower Ninth Ward Museum tells the history of one of the neighborhoods hit hardest during Hurricane Katrina.